How do you occupy a mum, a granny and three-year-old twins in the wilds of North Devon in winter? Our intrepid traveller found out
North Devon with its golden sandy beaches is an obvious summer holiday destination but how does it shape up out of season and how do you keep the children happy when the sun's not shining? With two kids, my mum and a dog in the car I took up the challenge. Two hundred miles from London and a four hour drive via Stonehenge later, we found ourselves settled into a comfortable log cabin overlooking an idyllic lake, tucking into the first of one of many clotted cream teas.
Lodge living
Our accommodation for the weekend was at Clovelly Lakeside Lodges; we stayed in a beautiful Swiss style wooden lodge set on the edge of one of five coarse fishing lakes within the grounds of a farm. With three bedrooms, a luxury bathroom with a top of the range Jacuzzi and sauna bath and generous living kitchen, plus a safe and self contained terrace that wrapped around three sides of the building, there was plenty of space to spread out and we soon made ourselves at home.
What was refreshing was the quality of the interior and the fact that it came equipped with all those little bits and pieces that you need when you are away but usually forget to take, things like tea towels, washing up liquid and kitchen roll. It was the perfect base from which to explore the beautiful North Devon countryside – with lots to keep us all (from the oldest right down to the youngest) occupied.
Croyde Bay
As a child I'd visited Croyde Bay and Mum was relieved to see that it hasn't changed much in the last 30 years. The village is steeped in old-world charm and winds its way down to the spectacular sandy beach that very gently shelves into the sea, making it great for children and one of the best places to surf in Devon. With coats and wellies donned we spent a lovely morning rock pooling and watching the surfers before enjoying a hot Cornish pastry in one of the many cafés overlooking the beach.
Braunton
Winding our way along the coastal road our next stop was Braunton, the gateway to North Devon's Golden Coast, with its picturesque harbour and ferry to Lundy Island. The beaches all along this stretch of coastline are fabulous and it's easy to see why they are popular with tourists all year round, as well as being major surfing venues. With wellies donned again, we took the dog for a walk through the spectacular sand dunes called Braunton Burrows that run along Saunton Sands beach.
Nearby is Braunton Burrows nature reserve and in the village the more athletic can join the Tarka Trail, a 180 mile long network of paths linking the North Coast with the South West Coastal Path. Also worth a visit are the Countryside Centre and Braunton Museum (both located adjacent to the free car park in the centre of the village) and the Elliot Art Gallery.
Barnstaple
From Braunton we ventured south to Barnstaple the commercial and agricultural centre of North Devon with roads leading to Ilfracombe, Lynton, Taunton, Tiverton, Exeter and Bideford. This pretty town is over 1,000 years old and sits in the valley of the River Tay just seven miles from the sea. There's a lot to see and despite being a very busy shopping town and popular destination for tourists, the thriving town is largely unspoilt. The Pannier Market running the length of Butcher's Row shouldn't be missed. Market days are Tuesday, Friday and Saturday and it was recently voted one of the best food markets in the country.
North Devon Quads
Saturday morning, first stop, North Devon Quads near Barnstaple, for a thrilling morning spent speeding round an all terrain muddy track. Anyone over six can join in and full training and equipment are provided, so you're kept safe and clean no matter what the weather's like. They also run paint-balling and clay pigeon shoots throughout the year. Even though the twins couldn't join in they thoroughly enjoyed seeing Nana and Mummy in the mud.
It's a great place to visit if you've got
kids of different ages and tastes because there really is something there for everyone to enjoy
Clovelly
After an adrenaline filled morning, we slowed the pace down and headed for Clovelly, a breathtakingly pretty seaside village which winds down a hill to a tiny 14th century quay. The streets are too steep for motor vehicles and for centuries donkeys were used to haul loads up and down the cobbled hill, built using pebbles hauled up from the beach hill. These days goods for the village are transported by sledge.
It's a steep walk that isn't suitable for pushchairs but out of season it is possible to drive down to the quay via a very steep road - useful if you might need a little help getting back to the top or you have small children with you. You'll enjoy various shops, tea rooms and pubs serving fresh local produce and if you make it as far as the beach, you'll find a waterfall and boat rides plus stunning coastal walks for the more athletic.
The Big Sheep
This delightful theme-park come-animal-attraction easily offers enough to see and do to keep you busy for a whole day, and if you're staying for a week you may even visit it more than once. It's great for children of all ages and there's a lot to do indoors as well as out if the sun decides not to shine. The outdoor Laser Games is like paint ball without the paint, and families can duel to the end dressed in full combat gear on the five acre combat zone.
Just as enjoyable but a little more sedate is the sheep show, which my three-year-olds loved. There's also horse whispering, mountain boarding, duck trials and pony rides plus a brilliant play barn. It's a great place to visit if you've got kids of different ages and tastes because there really is something there for everyone to enjoy.
Dartington Crystal Factory
As a child, I got in a lot of trouble after I fell and smashed the glasses that my mum had so carefully selected from the then Dartington seconds shop. Having been reminded of this during my wedding day speeches I was keen this time to make it round the factory unscathed. The factory tour is the perfect way to spend a couple of hours if the weather has taken a turn for the worse. You get to see first hand how glass is blown and how the intricate crystal pieces are shaped and decorated by hand. Then it's on to the museum and the shop, which is full of beautiful things to buy. We couldn't resist and had the children's hands cast in crystal as a present for Nana.
Contacts
To find out more about local child friendly attractions, restaurants, bars, pubs, walking routes, cycle trails and a list of events in the area, please visit www.discoverdevon.com
North Devon Quads – 01271 858 791 or email Southdown.farm@virgin.net. Prices start from £15 per person. This includes all safety clothing, full training and half an hour on the track
The Big Sheep - www.thebigsheep.co.uk or 01237 472366. Admission is £7.95 for adults and £6.95 for children. Under 3s go free!
Battlefield Live (at the Big Sheep) – www.battlefieldsports.biz or 01237 424444. Suitable for age 8 and upwards
Clovelly Village – www.clovelly.co.uk or 01237 431781. Admission adult £4.75; child £3.25; under 5s free.
Dartington Crystal Visitor Centre – www.dartington.co.uk or 01805 626 242
The Milky Way – www.themilkyway.co.uk or 01237 431 255
Where to stay
Farm & Cottage Holidays offers over 800 hand-picked, quality properties across Devon, Cornwall, Somerset and Dorset. Ranging in size and character, they include farms, barn conversions, log cabins, waterfront apartments, country mansions and quaint cottages. Prices in 2007 start from £165 per week for a one-bedroom cottage. A selection of Clovelly Lakeside Lodges are available throughout January, February and March 2007 from £211 per week for a one-bedroom lodge and from £264 per week for a two-bedroom lodge.
Contact Farm & Cottage Holidays on 01237 479146 or visit www.holidaycottages.co.uk for more information.
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