Myself and my friend were walking up the driveway to Dromoland Castle, pulling little wheelie suitcases behind us, when suddenly there were two men running towards us, smiling and shouting words of welcome. They deftly took our bags and escorted us the remainder of the short walk to the impressive entrance hall. (We'd parked in the lower car park, out of sight of the castle walls, scorning the valet parking on offer so we could be independently self sufficient. Forget it!) There are people to look after your every need at Dromoland – this is five-star Irish hospitality at its best.

Best hotel in Ireland award

Located in Co Clare in the west of Ireland, the castle features regularly in 'must see hotels of the world' lists – last year alone it was voted the Best Hotel in Ireland by Travel & Leisure Magazine, which also proclaimed it one of the Top 100 Best Hotels Worldwide. Conde Nast Traveller listed it as number four it its Top Golf Resorts poll, and it was also named the AA Hotel of the Year, Ireland & Great Britain 2006.

Dromoland offers its guests the chance to experience living like landed gentry – and what a life that is. The fairytale building was built in the 16th century and occupied by successive generations of the O'Brien clan – Barons of Inchiquin and the direct descendants of one of the great high kings of Ireland, Brian Boru – until it was sold in the 1960s to become a hotel. But the family remain, the current Baron, Conor Myles John O'Brien, lives in a manor in the castle grounds. Don't worry, he doesn't feel cramped – these grounds stretch over 410 acres.

I'm reminded of its aristocratic lineage as we drive up its impressive avenue; a Viscount has just arrived ahead of us, but – a far cry from the horse and carriage that would have carried him here once – he has touched down in a helicopter on the front lawn. Ireland is, believe it or not, experiencing a real problem at the moment finding enough air space for all the private helicopters in the country, one of the slightly more bizarre effects of its recent massive economic growth. In the '80s all the headlines were concerned with mass unemployment and emigration, 20 years later the talk is of mass immigration and helicopter congestion.

The castle has been furnished with lavish attention to detail, from the hand-carved panelling and original oil paintings to the Molton Brown products in the bathrooms. While it's certainly not a budget break option, it's worth checking out the package offers - and you can add on extras like chauffeur service or activities to your holiday to customise the experience.

Living like a lord

It's worth it to enjoy the service that befits the five-star experience. And of course to experience that glimpse of 'gentry life'– with hunting, fishing and archery available on the estate, a harpist to entertain during dinner – alongside all the benefits of contemporary comfort – 24 hour room service, picnic hampers with champagne for days out, and a championship 18-hole golf course. Overlooking Dromoland Lough, which is excellent for trout fishing, deer pheasant and other wildlife roam the castle grounds.

Family home

Five-star in Dromoland is never fussy, and not at all pretentious or stuffy. Because although it's a castle – with original stone walls and vast double doors studded with great iron nails in parts – it also feels very much like a family home. Portraits of eight generations of the O'Brien clan decorate all public areas of the castle – from the elegant long gallery to the cosy cocktail bar, you can enjoy afternoon tea or a glass of champagne under the gaze of an Earl or fine lady.

Strolling down to the lake the next morning before breakfast, I wonder if I'm tracing the morning walk of any of the Lady O'Brien's. One of them has been painted holding a small sprig of flowers and – somewhat oddly – a basket with three live birds, so presumably the garden was very much the ladies' domain. As well as the many and varied walks throughout miles of parkland on the estate, there is also a lovely walled classical garden with temple and lily pond. And what sounds like hundreds of birds in the branches above me. A small collection of ducks have gathered on the grass close by – four drakes, each with his missus, winding their way down to the lake, just like me.

Lavish dining

It's certainly a good way to work up an appetite – and for a breakfast menu this lavish I certainly need it, with choices ranging from traditional Irish to kippers or pancakes, lemon sole, Limerick ham, French toast and much more. I opt for the Galway Bay smoked salmon and scrambled egg – amazed that I am able to eat anything at all after the substantial five-course dinner I managed to put away last night. I had pheasant – who could resist the head waiter's recommendation, added to the fact it came from the castle's estate; the dinner menu contains a warning to be wary of lead shot in the wild game on offer.

Spa luxury

I have been offered a chance to try out the shooting range or archery classes – but opt for a few hours in the hotel spa instead. Here, unlike many places when a request for a deep massage is met with some light rubbing, my seaweed oil massage really is deep and leaves me feeling even more chilled out. Just the thing after archery or shooting I imagine …

The only thing I don't get to try out is the classic Rolls Royce service, offered by the hotel to take guests shopping or sightseeing for the day, driven by a chauffeur in a grand motor formerly owned by Sir Lawrence Olivier. Sadly the car is on its winter holidays. Still though, I suppose it's always a good reason to go back …

More information

Prices at Dromoland Castle start from Euro 297 (£222) per night, based on a double/twin room, including complimentary breakfast. For more information, including online reservations, visit the website at www.dromoland.ie or phone 00 353 61 368144.
Dromoland Castle is located 12km from Shannon International airport, with regular flights from the UK.

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