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23 November 2008
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The expert guide to buying lingerie
by Alyson Walsh
Want to know about lingerie? Ask the advice of a woman who can tell your bra size even before you've taken off your coat

Jill Adams Bra expert
Jill Adams
For professional advice on lingerie we went straight to the top. Most reputable bra manufacturers employ specialist training managers, women with years of experience in the underwear business, whose job it is to train in-store bra-fitters and consultants. Here's what they have to say...

Jill Adams, 42, training manager, Evenden (manufacturer of top brands Rigby & Peller, Freya and Fantasie)

With 28 years in the business, Jill has an expert eye - she can tell a woman's bra size just by looking at her (even if she's still wearing her coat!). Thankfully, she's willing to share her vast experience with us.

What Jill knows:

It's easy to buy an off-the-peg bra without getting advice

But it's much better to get the help of a trained fitter. Save yourself £200 worth of unworn underwear by getting properly fitted. People think they can guess bra sizes but they can't, it's a complicated business.

You can instantly look five pounds lighter in the right bra

A well-fitting bra will improve your profile and outline. The difference in body shape can be amazing, that's why you have to have the right foundation – get the underneath right and your clothes will look so much better.

You're wearing the wrong-sized bra when…

a) The shoulder straps fall off the shoulders and the back of the bra rides up. The straps are in the wrong place and back of the bra should be in line with the front. This bra is too big

b) The under-wires are digging in and you're cleavage is spilling out. This bra is too small

These are telltale signs that a bra is the wrong fit. Getting properly fitted makes a huge difference to comfort and support

You wouldn't go for an afternoon stroll in a pair of stilettos,
so why wear the wrong bra?
Every woman should have a 'wardrobe of bras'

Just as we have a selection of shoes for various uses – we need a good spectrum of bras too. After all, you wouldn't go for an afternoon stroll in a pair of stilettos would you, so why wear the wrong bra? A basic 'bra wardrobe' should include the following:

  • A plunge/cleavage bra
  • A strapless bra
  • A functional/everyday bra
  • A molded t-shirt bra
  • A pretty bra
  • Jill's top tips

    1. Get fitted! You don't have one bra size for life, having kids and dieting are body-changing experiences. Don't guess, get assessed!

    2. Don't put up with uncomfortable underwear. No bra should be uncomfortable; if it is, it doesn't fit

    3. Explore new shapes when you're putting together your bra wardrobe

    Stockists of Rigby & Peller, Fantasie and Freya include Debenhams, House of Fraser, John Lewis, Bravissimo, Harvey Nichols, Fenwicks, Harrods and Selfridges.

    get measured for a bra
    Monica Harrington
    Monica Harrington, training manager, Triumph International

    Monica, 37, is four months pregnant with her first child. She's worked in the lingerie industry for almost 20 years, and has a wealth of knowledge. Here the bra-fitting expert shares her personal tips on maternity bras, and offers general advice on lingerie.

    Pregnancy advice

    You're looking at a completely different bra fit

    As your breasts (and nipples) start getting bigger, it's important to get fitted for some new bras. I've gone from a 32DD to a 34F. Lots of women need to increase the under band size (the measurement around the body 34, 36, 38 etc) because of the bump. I'm lucky because I'm in the industry.

    Try wearing a sports bra

    When you're pregnant a 'non-wired' style is needed. I find a sports bra offers extra support. My favourite is the Tri-Action sports bra from Triumph - the deeper under band makes you feel more supported, like your breasts are being lifted.

    If you decide you want to breastfeed, go for a fitting one month before your due date

    Get properly fitted for a feeding bra - you may need to go up a couple of cup sizes and down on the back size (for example, from 38DD to 34 E/F). A feeding bra has to be quite generous – there must be room in the cup for when the breast fills with milk and room to fit a breast pad. An expert will be able to advise you on this.

    Bras only have a relatively short lifespan - a bra will last approximately three months
    What Monica knows:

    Some women never get fitted for a bra

    So they don't understand the sizing. They're under the illusion that the 32, 34, 36 measurement is the cup size. It's not. It's the bra size. So if a bra's too tight, they go up a size, from 34 to 36 say, when really they should be looking at the cup size (A, B, C. D etc).

    Age matters

    A 20 year old, 40 year old and 70 year old may all be the same size but they all have different needs. As we age, the breasts lose elasticity, so a 20 year old can get away with a plunge padded bra but a 70 year old will need a pre-formed built-up cup.

    Different body shapes need different bras

    If a woman has a long body, the length from the shoulder to the bust is greater so she needs more lift. She'd need a different bra to a woman with a shorter body shape.

    The average woman only buys 2½ bras per year

    Like running shoes, bras only have a relatively short lifespan. It's easy to hang onto something just because it's comfortable, but it's important to realise that, on average, a bra will last approximately three months, if you're washing and wearing it regularly. A bra is a delicately crafted piece of lingerie with lots of seams (the average bra has 30 seams) and because of the amount of Lycra, it will change shape and stretch with washing (although, hand-washed bras last longer). If you are going to machine wash your bras, place them in a special wash bag on a cool cycle.

    Monica's top tips

    1. Always get fitted for a bra – it doesn't take long and it's important to find a bra that suits your shape

    2. Wires should fit around the contour of the breast and not dig in. The shape of the wires will alter if you machine wash a bra at a high temp or leave it to dry on a radiator

    3. Be adventurous. There are loads of pretty bras around; instead of sticking to black and white, go for colour

    For further information call Triumph 01793 720 300 or visit www.triumph.com\uk

    See our pick of this season's most gorgeous lingerie...

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